Shallots are a very worthwhile crop and particularly versatile in the kitchen. Being frost hardy they were traditionally planted on the shortest day and harvested on the longest day, they are very useful as a first planting when catch cropping.

If you have ground prepared, preferably alongside a path so walking over the ground can be avoided they can be planted from Mid-December onwards. Trim the wispy tip without cutting into the bulb. Plant about 23cm (9”) apart in rows 30cm (12”) apart with the tip just showing. These spacings allow space for growth and room to work a dutch hoe between the plants so they can be kept weed free during the growing season. Cover with netting as birds, particularly jackdaws frequently pull newly planted sets out of the ground.

Alternatively, if the weather is not suitable or your ground is not ready for planting, shallot bulbs can be started off during January and early February in 3” or 4” pots, grown on in a cold greenhouse or cold frame and planted out about middle of March.

Some years a few bolt (run to seed), if this happens, with two hands carefully remove the individual bulb, use as a spring onion and leave the remaining bulbs in the cluster to continue growing to maturity.

About the end of May the bulbs start swelling and are normally ready for lifting by the end of June, ideally before they get too big otherwise, they will compound.  If the bulbs are to keep, they need to be thoroughly ripened either in a greenhouse or outside and protected from any rain. Ripening takes about four weeks, then trim the tops, remove loose outer skin and store in mushroom boxes in a cool shed.

It is a good idea to set aside the very best bulbs, those having medium size, good shape and no sign of compounding for replanting next year; this will reduce the chances of importing white rot.

This disease is becoming a real problem around the country particularly on allotments; it is often initially imported via infected onion or shallot bulbs then spread via tools and muddy boots, once in the ground it can take many years to eradicate. With an isolated outbreak any infected bulbs along with a spit of surrounding soil is best bagged up promptly and destroyed or disposed of. Drenching the hole with Jeyes Fluid seems to prevent it spreading further; infected bulbs should not be put on the compost heap. It is very noticeable that gardeners who retain their own clean shallot sets and who grow their onions from seed therefore not importing any sets have the least problem.

In many areas leek moth and allium leaf miner are causing significant damage.

The most effective solution for both pests will be to cover crops with insect mesh as described in this series of notes for onions and leeks.

Ground cleared of shallots by late June can be raked over revitalised with fertiliser and replanted immediately with a catch crop such as squash, courgette, French or runner beans, salads or winter brassicas all as mentioned in the notes on broad beans.

Shallots have umpteen uses in the kitchen, when pickled many consider they are superior to onions.

There are many different types of shallot and in recent years both Golden Gourmet and Red Gourmet have produced very good results however most other varieties also crop well at Ashbrook.